Assembly

Assembly instructions.
Here is the step by step guide to installing your springer, if you wish to save a copy of this for future reference please download here.
1. If the seat tube of your bike's frame has a diameter of 32 mm (many mountain bikes), use only the largest, blue plastic insert. If the seat tube has a diameter of 28 mm (most bikes), use the white insert inside the blue insert. If the seat tube has a diameter of 25 mm (a few models, particularly ladies' and junior bicycles), use all three inserts (red inside, white in the middle, blue outside). Let the opening in the insert(s) point straight forward.
2. Hold the two clamp halves around the blue insert. The sides with the large hole should be centred on the back side of the seat tube.
3. Insert the two rear bolts, and fasten the nuts so the rear clamp surfaces come tightly together.
4. Insert the large bolt from the left side of bike. Make sure that the flat surfaces in the middle of the bolt come between the flat surfaces in the large bolt hole in the clamps! Mount the large bolt nut. Tighten the two nuts and the large bolt nut.
5. Insert in the three front bolts and mount the nuts. In some cases the front side of the clamps may be so far apart that the three front screws are a little too short. In that case, unfortunately, the bolts and the two rear nuts must be loosened so that the three front nuts can be mounted with a couple of turns. Now, first the two rear nuts and then the big bolt nut should be tightened again. Then the three front nuts can be tightened again (all three equally) until the clamps are fairly tight around the seat tube.
6. Mount the S-tube onto the bolt, and secure it by inserting the locking pin through the hole in the S-tube and the bolt.
7. Take a test ride. If the heel of your shoe hits the horizontal part of the S-tube, loosen the three front nuts so the clamps can be "wiggled" up until the heel of your shoe is clear of the S-tube in all pedal positions. If the heel of your shoe clears the S-tube by more than 1 inch in all pedal positions, the clamps should be wiggled down.
8. When the correct position of the clamps has been found, mark this on the seat tube with a felt-tip pen or something similar.
9. Dismantle all the parts, because now you are going to use contact glue so that the Springer will stay firmly in place. Spread a thick layer of contact glue over all surfaces which are going to go on top of one another. Start with the seat tube, then the inside and outside of the plastic inserts which were used during the test assembly, and finally the curved insides of the clamps. Also spread glue over the threads of the large bolt.
10. IMPORTANT! Let the glue dry for at least 20 minutes. Contact glue surfaces must not be joined together until the glue is no longer sticky. Let the bicycle stand at room temperature for 24 hours after assembly, so the glue can dry thoroughly.
11. Start the assembly with the innermost plastic insert. Open it up wide so that it can snap right into place around the seat tube, in the correct position on the first try. NOTE! Once it is in position it is too late to move it. If you are using more than one insert for your bicycle, snap the other inserts on in precisely the same way.
12. Place the clamps on the outside of the inserts. Try to place them precisely, with the back surfaces together at the first attempt.
13. Insert the two rear bolts, and fasten the nuts so the rear clamp surfaces come tightly together.
14. Insert the large bolt and mount the large bolt nut (as instructed in step 4) Tighten the two nuts and the large bolt nut.
15. Insert in the three front bolts and mount the nuts (as instructed in step 5). Tighten the three front nuts hard (but evenly, each nut in turn a little at a time). Also tighten the two rear nuts and the large bolt but not hard. The rear clamp surfaces must be tightly pressed together.
16. There is a little "pimple" on the outer end of the S-tube. It acts as a thread guide for the coil spring. Screw the spring about 1 inch down on the S-tube. Leave the eye on top of the spring in the position shown in this diagram of the completed Springer, the end of the spring wire at the eye should point straight in towards the bicycle.
17. Mount the S-tube onto the bolt and secure is with the locking pin.
18. This is how Springer should look after assembly.
19. Thread the outer hole at the wide end of the safety release onto the eye on the top of the spring. (A little force is necessary). Thread the cord through the hole in the bottom of the plastic hook. Tie a simple granny knot at the very end of the cord and pull this knot back into the "transverse" hole in the base of the hook. Thread the loose end of the cord through hole 1, 2 or 3 of the safety release according to the following guidelines: Hole 1: All children, or adult weighing less than 110 lbs, or small dogs weighing less than 45 lbs. Hole 2: Adults weighing over 110 lbs and with dogs weighing more than 45 lbs. Hole 3: Strong, skilled, adult cyclists and with large strong, eager to pull dogs. Use hole 2 or 3 only if all the requirements for that hole are met. Make a single granny knot on the cord so that it does not slip out of the safety release. The total length of the cord, plastic hook and safety release should be about 12-16 inches (shortest for large dogs). If you have to adjust the cord, do it by untying the knot at the safety release and making a new knot somewhere else on the cord. NOTE! Check from time to time that none of the nuts are loose. Tighten loose nuts immediately.
SPRINGER's Safety Release SPRINGER's patented safety release frees your dog instantly, without discomfort to either of you, if your dog should happen to run on the wrong side of a lamp post, tree, or mailbox while you are looking the other way. This might never happen to you, but you can feel more comfortable knowing that the safety release is there. The safety release is adjustable for the strength of your dog and your own weight. Inexpensive replacements are available.